Longtime residents of St. Petersburg have witnessed the city’s remarkable transformation from a quiet coastal retirement haven, once affectionately dubbed “God’s Waiting Room,” into a vibrant cultural hub. That evolution plays out daily as sleek high-rises redefine the skyline and parking spaces along Beach Drive become increasingly elusive. The dining scene has undergone its own renaissance, with each new restaurant announcement raising the culinary standard to new heights.
As downtown reaches its saturation point, diners are venturing beyond the familiar boundaries of Beach Drive, discovering emerging neighborhoods offering a welcome respite from the urban rush. Chief among them: the Grand Central District, stretching along Central Avenue. The area has blossomed into St. Petersburg’s next gastronomic frontier, where innovative restaurants are reshaping the local food landscape.
In the heart of this thriving district, a new culinary standout has emerged, one that blends sophisticated Latin flavors with contemporary elegance. Pulpo Kitchen & Lounge, which opened in December, is the latest venture from restaurateurs Jason Ruhe and Hope Montgomery. It marks the third concept from the husband-and-wife team, following Brick & Mortar, in downtown St. Petersburg, and Sea Worthy, in Tierra Verde. For Ruhe, Pulpo is a return to his culinary roots. Raised in West Tampa, his childhood was steeped in the aromas of his mother’s homemade ropa vieja—formative experiences that helped inspire this refined new concept.
What sets Pulpo Kitchen & Lounge apart is how it fills a noticeable void in the local dining scene with its elevated Latin-inspired fare. The carefully curated menu—about half static, half seasonal—focuses on shareable small plates, a nod to Latin culture’s emphasis on community and connection.
Ruhe partnered with longtime friend Julian Colson and his cousin, Dylan Ruhe, who oversees operations, and developed an inventive cocktail program. The drinks are visually stunning and complex, each one acting as a liquid ambassador—sophisticated, bold and rooted in tradition, while embracing modern techniques.
At the center of the bar program is Coco Verde, a cocktail that walks the line between alchemy and poetry. Coconut Cartel Blanco flows through emerald-green chartreuse and cool cucumber, with mint and lime adding brightness. A cloud of egg white foam tops the drink, creating a silky finish. It’s more than a beverage—it’s an escape in a glass, perfect for Florida’s sun-soaked afternoons and balmy nights.
The Local Gems & Cabrales Blue Cheese Fritters are a standout starter. The golden spheres arrive with architectural precision, their crisp shells giving way to molten Cabrales blue cheese—bold and unapologetically complex. They rest atop a mosaic of heirloom tomatoes, sweetened with a citrus vinaigrette and finished with a dash of Peruvian pepper. The interplay of creamy cheese and gentle heat creates a dish that is both elegant and emotionally resonant.
Next, the squid ink rice-stuffed calamari delivers a sophisticated take on traditional paella. Tender calamari serve as both vessel and treasure, wrapping around rich, dark rice infused with chorizo. A sherry cream sauce provides contrast, its subtle sweetness balancing the oceanic intensity. This reimagining of familiar ingredients showcases the kitchen’s technical precision and creative flair.
For diners seeking indulgence, the lollipop lamb chops offer restrained opulence. Each perfectly seared chop is topped with pistachio butter that melts into the meat, adding nutty richness. A fresh herb salad brings height and brightness, while jewel-toned pomegranate arils add bursts of tartness. A whisper of saffron ties the dish together, elevating it into the realm of fine dining artistry.
Though St. Petersburg has often lived in the culinary shadow of larger cities, Pulpo Kitchen & Lounge is helping change that perception. Its inclusion in The New York Times’ “36 Hours in St. Petersburg” feature, just months after opening, reflects a shift in national attention toward the city’s growing food scene.
The timing couldn’t be better. With Michelin and Visit St. Pete-Clearwater announcing the guide’s expansion into Pinellas County in 2025, Pulpo appears poised for potential recognition. The restaurant’s dedication to innovation, quality sourcing and technical mastery aligns well with Michelin’s standards. Its ability to reinterpret Latin cuisine through a contemporary lens, without sacrificing authenticity, exemplifies the kind of thoughtful evolution that earns acclaim.
As St. Petersburg continues its journey from coastal charm to cosmopolitan distinction, Pulpo Kitchen & Lounge is both a product and a catalyst of that change. For diners seeking more than a meal—something memorable, meaningful and modern—this Grand Central District gem delivers a lasting impression.
Photos by Barbara Lynch
